February 9, 2018 – Suva, Fiji

After some juggling of schedules over the past few days, due to cloudy, rainy, windy, weather being caused by two developing tropical cyclones in the South Pacific, we seem to be back on track by docking on time this morning in Suva, Fiji.

Our visit to Apia, Samoa on Feb 6 was cancelled because of port construction. Crystal made alternative arrangements for us to visit Yasawa-I-Rara, Fiji yesterday, but seas were far too rough to attempt using tender boats to transport passengers to and from our anchorage point on the island. Captain Vorland brought us in close enough to see the island (through the rain) but elected to be safe and cancel the visit. We will have another chance to visit Yasawa-I-Rara after we leave New Zealand in early March, as part of Crystal Symphony’s schedule.

We arrived in the rain to Suva, and Crystal Serenity was tied up at the dock by 7:00 a.m. Suva is the capital and largest city in Fiji -- located on the southeast coast of the island of Viti Levu, largest of the hundreds of islands and atolls which comprise the Republic of Fiji. We are now about 1,000 nautical miles northeast of New Zealand's North Island. Suva looks to be a bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis. It probably goes without saying, Suva is the commercial and political center of Suva.

We departed the ship at 8:45 this morning, in a driving rainstorm for a shore excursion called "The Flavors of Fiji." Our transportation was in a modern, comfortable, air-conditioned motor coach, and we had an excellent tour guide named Sai. He was outgoing, knowledgeable, experienced as a tour guide, and very proud of his Fijian heritage.

Here are some of the many things Sai told us:

• There are 333 islands in the Republic of Fiji, with 123 of them populated. Total number of people living in Fiji is now a little over 800,000.

• Similar to what we heard in Samoa, Fijian villages share and care for each other, under the authority and leadership of a village chief. The largest building in a village is the church. There is freedom of religion in Fiji, but all native people are Christians.

• It rains almost every day during the rainy season -- November through April.

• Unemployment is very high (above 30%, leading to a high crime rate.

• The population of Fiji is mostly made up of native Fijians, who are Melanesian, although many also have Polynesian ancestry. 

• Indian contract laborers were brought to the islands by the British colonial powers in the 19th century. Their descendants (called Indo-Fijians) now make up about 30% of the population, and most of them practice Hindu religion.

• Fiji gained their independence from Great Britain in 1970, but they are still a member of the Commonwealth.

After about a 30-minute drive through the countryside, we reached the Wainadoi Spice Farm and were warmly greeted by local Fijian villagers. Luckily for us, the rain stopped, and Jim joined the group that went on a guided walking tour of the spice gardens. The land was green, lush, and beautifully maintained. The local guide pointed out various spices being grown, including nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, cardamom and vanilla, along with some that we would probably call "medicinal herbs," being studied for possible treatments for cancer and diabetes.

Ginny remained behind with a group that looked at displays that were set up, and they watched traditional food being prepared and cooked in a pit of hot stones.

We were then entertained with music, singing and chanting, followed by tasting of the local cooking (taro roots, purple sweet potatoes, chicken, and coconut wrapped in palm fronds). Packaged organic spices were available for purchase onsite, but we didn’t buy any.

Driving back to the ship, Sai took us on a whirlwind tour of Suva, which included an area of nice homes and foreign embassies, a viewing spot overlooking the harbor, and the attractive Parliament House and President’s Home, both from the colonial architecture era.

It was a very good tour, that we greatly enjoyed, and we learned a lot about Fiji.

Onboard Serenity, we had two more sea days, filled with activities, between Pago Pago and Suva. Bob Arno (pickpocket expert) gave a second presentation, as did organist Hector Olivera (just as amazing as his first concert). One stage show, “Curtain Call,” was postponed due to rough seas early this week, as it was deemed too dangerous for the dancers to perform under the conditions we were experiencing. It was finally performed last night (Feb 8th) and was great, as usual. Crystal has been performing the show onboard Serenity for many years, but it still draws thundering standing ovations. It really is a great show; we agree.

We crossed the International Date Line, so Tuesday, February 6th never existed for us. We went to bed Monday night and woke up on Wednesday morning. We’ll get that day back later in the cruise, when we cross the date line heading back eastbound.

After another sea day, we will be visiting Mystery Island, in the Republic of Vanuatu, on Sunday (Feb 11th).

Jim & Ginny