We arrived in Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango), on Tutuila, the largest of the five islands and two
atolls which make up American Samoa -- an overseas territory of the United
States. In case you’re looking for us on a map, we’re in the South Pacific Ocean,
about midway between Honolulu, Hawaii and Sydney, Australia.
Here’s a map of our itinerary for the next seven weeks that will give you an idea of how many ports we will be visiting in the South Pacific. Pago Pago is south-southwest of Honolulu.
While looking at the map, remember that we will be
island-hopping west-bound from Pago Pago to Sydney on Crystal Serenity and then switching ships to Crystal Symphony for the remainder of the trip, cruising first to
New Zealand, and then island-hopping again in a mostly east-bound direction.
Pago Pago is the territorial capital of American
Samoa, and home to one of the deepest and most picturesque natural harbors in
the South Pacific.
The Samoan Islands are a grouping of at least 15 islands covering more than 1,000 square miles in the central South Pacific. People living on these islands all share a common Samoan language, but there are two separate political jurisdictions -- the independent country of Samoa and the Territory of American Samoa. This division resulted from a treaty that was signed in 1899, splitting control of the Samoan Islands between Germany (the Western group of Islands) and the United States (the eastern group of islands). During the 20th century's world wars, New Zealand occupied the German Samoa Islands and administered them as a trust territory, until granting them their independence in 1962. The new country was then named Western Samoa, but "Western" was dropped from the name in 1997. The United States still retains the eastern islands as a territory with the name American Samoa. It is the only inhabited US territory south of the equator.
We were scheduled to visit Apia, capital of the independent nation of Samoa tomorrow, but that had to be cancelled due to construction in their port area. Crystal is working on a replacement port stop in a few days, to take the place of Apia. We have heard that it will most likely be Yasawa-I-Rara in Fiji.
Pago Pago is somewhat "off the beaten track" with only a limited number of tourist services. Jim already was aware of that, as he served here on temporary military duty for a short time nearly 50 years ago, but he has talked about the beauty of this island paradise ever since and was hoping that someday he would be able to return.
It was a beautiful sail-in this morning, with the towering, lush green volcanic peaks welcoming us after five full days at sea.
We were worried about rain here today, as Pago Pago receives, on average, 123 inches (312 cm) of rain per year, and this is the rainy season. One source states that "Pago Pago has the highest annual rainfall of any harbor in the world." This morning, as we arrived at 8:00 am, it was 88 degrees F (31 degrees C), and the humidity had to have been close to 100%. But there was no rain falling (yet).
We went on a shore excursion titled "Ocean Center & Tutuila Crafts." We did the two topics shown in the tour title and much more on our 3-hour tour. Transportation was via a typical Samoan bus, consisting of a hand-made wooden body on a truck chassis, brightly painted, wooden bench seats, and permanently open windows. The bus was comfortable enough, and the only problem occurred when the driver backed the bus into another bus that was following us. It didn't seem to be a big problem. Our tour guide was a young man who explained what we were seeing and answered questions along the way, to explain the Samoan culture and lifestyle.
Our first stop was at the Tauese P. F. Sunia Ocean Center, which is a visitor center for the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa, a U.S. funded program co-managed by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the government of American Samoa. One of the main exhibits at the Ocean Center is a room-sized display system that uses computers and video projectors to display data (photographs and films) onto a 6-foot diameter sphere. We watched a 20-minute program on the importance of the oceanic ecosystem surrounding Samoa. The program was well done, and we enjoyed the experience.
Next, we drove along the shoreline, admiring the scenery, with the next stop at a spot where we could admire Flowerpot Rock, a large offshore rock that rises from the water rather attractively.
The Samoan Islands are a grouping of at least 15 islands covering more than 1,000 square miles in the central South Pacific. People living on these islands all share a common Samoan language, but there are two separate political jurisdictions -- the independent country of Samoa and the Territory of American Samoa. This division resulted from a treaty that was signed in 1899, splitting control of the Samoan Islands between Germany (the Western group of Islands) and the United States (the eastern group of islands). During the 20th century's world wars, New Zealand occupied the German Samoa Islands and administered them as a trust territory, until granting them their independence in 1962. The new country was then named Western Samoa, but "Western" was dropped from the name in 1997. The United States still retains the eastern islands as a territory with the name American Samoa. It is the only inhabited US territory south of the equator.
We were scheduled to visit Apia, capital of the independent nation of Samoa tomorrow, but that had to be cancelled due to construction in their port area. Crystal is working on a replacement port stop in a few days, to take the place of Apia. We have heard that it will most likely be Yasawa-I-Rara in Fiji.
Pago Pago is somewhat "off the beaten track" with only a limited number of tourist services. Jim already was aware of that, as he served here on temporary military duty for a short time nearly 50 years ago, but he has talked about the beauty of this island paradise ever since and was hoping that someday he would be able to return.
It was a beautiful sail-in this morning, with the towering, lush green volcanic peaks welcoming us after five full days at sea.
We docked next to a busy container port, but within easy walking distance to town. Pago Pago itself has a population of about 3,000, but 95% of all people in American Samoa live on Tutuila, home to Pago Pago. Latest population estimate for American Samoa is 57,600.
We were worried about rain here today, as Pago Pago receives, on average, 123 inches (312 cm) of rain per year, and this is the rainy season. One source states that "Pago Pago has the highest annual rainfall of any harbor in the world." This morning, as we arrived at 8:00 am, it was 88 degrees F (31 degrees C), and the humidity had to have been close to 100%. But there was no rain falling (yet).
We went on a shore excursion titled "Ocean Center & Tutuila Crafts." We did the two topics shown in the tour title and much more on our 3-hour tour. Transportation was via a typical Samoan bus, consisting of a hand-made wooden body on a truck chassis, brightly painted, wooden bench seats, and permanently open windows. The bus was comfortable enough, and the only problem occurred when the driver backed the bus into another bus that was following us. It didn't seem to be a big problem. Our tour guide was a young man who explained what we were seeing and answered questions along the way, to explain the Samoan culture and lifestyle.
Our first stop was at the Tauese P. F. Sunia Ocean Center, which is a visitor center for the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa, a U.S. funded program co-managed by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the government of American Samoa. One of the main exhibits at the Ocean Center is a room-sized display system that uses computers and video projectors to display data (photographs and films) onto a 6-foot diameter sphere. We watched a 20-minute program on the importance of the oceanic ecosystem surrounding Samoa. The program was well done, and we enjoyed the experience.
Next, we drove along the shoreline, admiring the scenery, with the next stop at a spot where we could admire Flowerpot Rock, a large offshore rock that rises from the water rather attractively.
We made a short stop at a quiet golf course and clubhouse, primarily to use the restrooms and walk around a little bit in the warm sunshine. Then we traveled to the village of Leone, on the southwest coast of the island. Leone was the ancient capital of of Tutuila island and also where the first missionary arrived in 1832. We stopped at a memorial/healing garden that was created here, dedicated to the memory of the 11 local victims of a 2009 tsunami (flash flood).
Last stop on the tour was to a craft display and short demonstration of basket weaving using palm fronds.
Of equal interest to the beautiful scenery we saw today was the description of life in Samoa by our young tour guide. Samoans have preserved their centuries-old culture called "fa'a samoa" (the Samoan Way), where family and religion are most important, respect of elders is strictly adhered to, and being of service to family is a person's duty. Their traditional communal lifestyle revolves around the extended family, headed by a matai (chief), who manages the communal economy and family lands. The guide stated that almost all Samoan villages still enforce a period of 20 to 30 minutes for prayer in the early evening, signified by ringing a bell or by blowing a conch shell. All other activities stop during that period of prayer. Christianity is, by far, the dominant religion. We have read that 98% of people in American Samoa are Christians (14% of that number are Mormons). We saw lots of churches dominating villages all around the island where we rode.
In answer to a question, the guide stated that cricket and American football are their favorite sports, and he seemed quite proud that there are so many American Samoan players in the NFL.
After being gone for 50 years, Jim recognized American Samoa as still astonishingly beautiful, only with a lot more cars and other "improvements." We even saw McDonalds and Carl Jr's fast-food restaurants. But we also observed that it is not a booming, modern tourist mecca with resort hotels and other attractions. In fact, based on what we've read, matters could be getting worse. One of the biggest employers over the years in American Samoa has been canning of tuna fish. At one time, Pago Pago was one of the world's largest tuna processors, with two of the largest companies in the world -- Chicken of the Sea and StarKist. Unfortunately, some of these cannery operations have been closing down. We wish the best for the wonderful people of American Samoa.
Life aboard Crystal Serenity continues busy. A highlight was the Super Bowl viewing party yesterday (Sunday, January 4th), during early afternoon in the Stardust Club, or on stateroom televisions. There was plenty of food and drink available, and a big crowd was on hand. Interestingly, most were rooting for the Eagles.
Ginny has been taking art lessons, mostly watercolor, and continues to enjoy it. There's normally a good-size crowd attending -- all with varying levels of experience.
Here is a view of where Jim spends time early every morning walking for three miles -- the outdoor walking track on Promenade Deck 7. He's tried walking on many cruise ships, and this one is the best.
We had a pleasant dinner at the Tastes Restaurant on Deck 12 with Frank, our Shell Point friend and fellow world traveler, one evening recently. Another evening we dined at Silk Road (Deck 7) with our "Signature Collection" travel hosts Sharna and Stewart, from Las Vegas. Taking nothing away from the Main Dining Room, which has been great, but we sometimes enjoy varying the routine to meet with friends, socialize, and talk about their experiences so far on the world cruise.
Enrichment lecturers and entertainers continue at a high level of interest for all of us on board. Last Sunday (Feb 4) we attended the Juke Box Musical, "A Love Story -- 6/8 Cafe" featuring the Crystal Serenity's lead vocalists, singers, dancers, and the show band.
Jim & Ginny
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