March 7, 2018 – Lautoka, Fiji

We reached Fiji Wednesday morning, March 7, after cruising NNE from northern New Zealand the past two full sea days. Water conditions have been smooth and pleasant.

We’re now at 17.5° South latitude. Here is what the sky looked like this morning, with a beautiful sunrise at our first stop ─ Lautoka.

We visited Fiji about a month ago during this same world cruise, when we were on Crystal Serenity headed for Sydney, Australia. On that occasion, we visited Suva, the capital and largest city. Lautoka is Fiji’s second-largest city (pop: 52,500) and is on the same island as Suva (Viti Levu), but on the opposite side of the island (about 75 miles away, as the crow flies). Viti Levu is the largest of the hundreds of islands that comprise the Republic of Fiji.

We took an unusual tour today that was titled, “Great Taste of Fiji.” This was a tour that we arranged through our travel agent before leaving home 45 days ago. On this adventure, we definitely got an insight into the real Fiji, not the resorts or big tourist hotels, that’s for sure. The two of us, plus six others from the ship met Kali (our guide) and our driver when we came down the gangway. Then we piled onto a minibus and headed out for the highlands, in the interior of the island. We quickly passed through Lautoka and the very large sugar mill (the largest employer in this part of Fiji). Only brown sugar and molasses are products of this mill. Soon we were out in the countryside, passing field after field of sugar cane.

We started a climb in the Sabeto Valley, along the Sabeto River. We turned onto a rocky, dirt road for most of our trip, crossed the river several times (through the water), and climbed up steep hills. We were deep in the forest when we passed a gold mining operation. After about an hour of rough driving, we finally reached Kali’s home village of Navilawa. This is a small, tranquil place, but quite beautiful, inside of an ancient, dormant volcanic crater. That, of course, meant we were surrounded by tall mountains. We saw only about 20 houses here, although he claimed there are 200 members of the village. Not all still live in the village full time.

Before doing anything, we had to be allowed entry by the village chief. First, we had to put on a sarong (a big square cloth wrapped around our waist and legs). Then we entered the community center, taking off our shoes and sitting on the floor with our chief (guest lecturer Dan Ravin was elected) sitting opposite the village chief. They exchanged greetings and then drank from the Kava Cup during a ceremony that is done for anyone entering the village, we were told. After acceptance, we all drank our share from the Kava Cup and told the chief who we were and where we came from. Kava is from a root that is pounded, dried, and then mixed with water during the ceremony. For many Fijians, Kava is a link to their ancestral past and is the nation's traditional and national drink. It may be a mild narcotic. But, who knows? It was the color of mud and doesn’t taste like any other drink we’ve ever had -- slightly bitter. It must be an acquired taste, but was a one-in-a-lifetime experience for us!

While lunch was being prepared, several of us walked around the village and observed the small Wesleyan Church, the Kindergarten, and we scrambled up a large rock for the best view in town. There is neither electricity nor running water is this village.

There was a large spread for lunch, including breadfruit, cassava (tapioca root), eggplant, several types of cooked taro leaves, and papaya. All of this was eaten cross-legged on the floor off a very short table.

After saying our goodbyes and thanking them for allowing us to visit their village, we started the harrowing drive back off the mountain. Our driver was the real hero on this adventure. We felt this was an authentic view of how many Fijians live -- it was a worthwhile trip. On top of everything else, the landscape was definitely very pretty.

Kali told us that the total population for Fiji (on all 126 inhabited islands) is approaching 900,000. Fifty-one percent of residents are native Fijians, who are Melanesian. The second largest group is Indo-Fijian – descendants of Indian contract laborers who were brought to the islands by the British colonial powers in the 19th century. He explained that there are two weather seasons -- dry in the Winter season (May through October), and cyclone season (November through April). He claimed that in Winter the coldest it gets is 10°C (50°F), and they harvest sugar cane in June (Winter).

We continue our visit to Fiji tomorrow at the remote island of Yasawa-i-Rara

Jim & Ginny